center page in the book of Exquisite |
In the mean time, what I can do is to draw a nice picture of her, to share with you in my new book & hope you will like it, too. But this is not the end, see what I've discover...
center page in the book of Exquisite |
Walking on the street in the Autumn of Paris, especially for the first time, I was truly impressed by the richness of color wherever I go.
I’ve remembered some of my friends said, reasons for they didn't like Paris...yes, didn’t...were because of the old & deteriorated surroundings in some arrondissement; pebble roads that were difficult to walk on, some alleys are "dirty", people are "not friendly" with a sense of "pride", not safe after dark, pick pockets around, Paris is small...., etc, etc. (don‘t shout to me if you are an instant Paris lover, like myself :D)
Even though it‘s part of the truth except with reasons behind: history, cultural, multi-racial, interaction, mindset...they are the elements to form this city, bit by bit for us to explore.
By walking almost 90% within these 12 days, my feet did overloaded. I can take bus or train, of course but walking on pebble pave, to me, is enjoyable (without my luggage :P), one of my favorite activity here; they are extra beautiful after the touch of shower - Nostalgia romance I would say.
Strolling around the “deteriorating” alleys with ancient buildings, stories behind, the color of memories...whether it’s sad or cheerful, it’s a mark, always. A mark of people who live or died, who gave or took, stay or left...and that’s how I wrote Palette October.
Wow! Tower Eiffel! What it means to you?! I’m standing right now is near the Jardin du Trocadéro, Av des Nations in front of the Pont d’léna, one of the best viewing angle to Tower Eiffel. Why am I here instead of up up on the tower?...It’s not in my itinerary, besides, if you still remember, I’ve finished my apple there, at the foot of the tower, good enough this time :P
Back to the question and what is your answer? An icon of France? A romantic spot for lovers? A must go in a life time tourist spot?....you name it. One of my friend told me that when she traveled to Paris with her husband years ago, in her memory after returned to Hong Kong, Eiffel, Eiffel, Eiffel...almost every corner in Paris could see...a bit “tired” of it’s existing, everywhere, every minute.
She was right, you’ll never miss Eiffel, day or night, there is always a trace to discover it in my photos. But it’s also amazing when you see how it “interact” to the surrounding, a lot more rather than simply an icon.
When I took this picture, just because of a very straight forward desire to capture the chaotic elements all appear in the same frame. I didn't recognize there was a man somewhere “resting? or...”at the bottom of the bridge, another element in the photo, that’s all.
But when I’ve
returned Hong Kong, to zoom in each photos as my usual practice to explore
more, the contrast of “flourishing” above
vs the “hollowness “ below in this photo, I was engaged. It reminds me the
other day early in the morning, a “yellow spot” drawn my attention...
He was working silently, full of concentration without any facial expression, as usual without being aware by any passengers who were hurrying to work. I stared at this scenario for a while, splash of rain falling onto my face...the exact feeling on the bridge...
When I arrived Paris on the first day, I asked my hotel driver wasn't she happy to live here, so she could visit the Louvre, Tower Eiffel, Jardins...,etc at any time she want? She told me, it’s because you are a tourist, I am not, I’ve never visited the Louvre, too much to do for a living, for my family...the exact feeling at the fountain...
Tower Eiffel, what it really means to us?!
Rotunda is very common in Paris, some are in the park, on the square or around the corner of the street; most of them are near the famous tourist spot, such as Hôtel de Ville, Tower Eiffel...,etc. You can imagine how wonderful the scenery will be under star night, blossom of cherry in Spring, Autumn burst golden leaves or in the soft white snow of Christmas...post card shot, right?
It’s also enjoyable to watch those lovely kids riding with interesting facial expressions, some are excited, a little bit scare while the turn is moving away from their parents, but a sudden burst of smile when they are once appear in front of them; they all become prince & princess within minutes living happily ever after...
I still remember when I was some where at Saint-Paul, after a long walk without having any lunch, I quickly grab a lemon pie & espresso from a boulangerie, eating in front of a rotunda at the street corner; the weather is cloudy & cold, but with it’s vintage colour decorative light bulb, pinkish apple like smiling faces on pastel wooden horses, I feel so warm, what an unforgettable moment.
Merry-go-round,
a more familiar name in my childhood, time flies...
There are numerous messages delivered from graffiti, poster or sticker found on the street here, in Paris. I am sure there will be some trace of the “yellow vest” - mouvement des gilets jaunes; a chaos agitated by the increase of fuel tax. My new friend Li, who studied & working here for over 18 years, she told me that actually the amount increased was minimal, but demonstration/ protest/ strike whatever we call are frequently happen in France, i.e.: they get used to & nothing to be afraid of.
Liberté (Freedom),
Égalité (Equality), Fraternité (fraternity / brotherhood), ou la mort (or
death*) - is the “national motto” of France. There may be still argument of
whether the Declaration of the Rights of Man & of the Citizen on 26 August
1789 should include all of them in exact wordings, especially the last one; but no matter how, it’s
originated in the French Revolution. The Tricolor flag of France are embodying
all the principle of the Revolution- Liberté (Blue), Égalité (white) and
Fraternité (Red).
So, who is
Komitas? A statue that I’ve seen in Jardin d’Erevan. I don’t know who he was? But the
form of statue clearly tells me it is not a display of an art piece, something
serious,... to remember.
“ en Hommage a
Komitas
Comositeur, musicologue
et aus
1500000 victimes
du génocide arménien de 1915
perpetre dans L‘empire ottoman“
If we are thinking of the War Crime, Holocaust- Jewish was the first comes into our mind; but there is another one, Genocide- Armenian.
Komitas was the survivor in this genocide, he was an Armenian priest, composer, a super talented musicologist, founder of the Armenian national school of music. If he didn’t collected & transcribed over 3000 pieces of Armenian folk music during his work in life time, the cultural heritage of Armenia will be vanished together with the genocide, no one will even remember the existing of this history.
To Komitas, although he could survive after released from concentrate camp, the shadow of death together with his fear of losing his lifetime work in Armenian music that finally drove him nuts, he was transferred to stay in Paris where his friend was there... but weakness & insane were the only melody left in his last years, who died in 1935.
I have to
admit that I am quite lost & depress while preparing this post, when I’ve
watched the film online “Music to Madness (The Story of Komitas)” , in order to
find who he was? The unfold of history was intolerable, up to this moment, I can’t
find an “excuse” for “human” to expel/ destroy a nation and I am not intend to
find one.
I love walking, street, alley, riverside, local stalls...although it will drain off all my energy at the end, almost every night when I’ve returned to the hotel; but walking is really the most enjoyable activity in Paris, I can adjust my momentum wherever I like, “freeze” ......when attractions like this.
Texture & colour are the highlights which draw me close, all of the unknown fonts are transform into beautiful graphics; but in fact they do mean something for the specific group of persons or individuals in a specific moment.
Sometimes it’s sad to find them being painted on the public facilities, especially onto the heritage architectures which did shock me in the first place because I thought the citizens here do treasure them more than balustrade, mansion doors, pavement, post box...,etc. But when I walk along to discover more & more of them, I start to understand a bit more of their anger, the only way to express their accusation of being ignored by the government? the empowered? for months...years...?
I am in the Sacré-Cœur, walking around, admiring the grande architecture, huge organ above...then an “angel” voice awoke me....click to listen
Hallelujah hallelujah
Hallelujah hallelujah
Hallelujah hallelujah....
(Sorry for the noise in the background, feel the volume of the interior...isn’t it amazing?)
Open my eyes in a panic mode, I am already trapped or better say I was buried by a crowded of tourist from my “motherland” simply because they squeeze for a glance to the priest who will start the mass quite soon. A few ladies notice my shock, although I’m sure I can see from their eyes, they are a bit of embarrass & feel sorry to interrupt but, my best viewing angle is absolutely un-replaceable, so I am totally “under-covered” within the next two minutes.
I am not sure whether I should force to escape but at the same time I do feel embarrassment, too, because Hong Kong had already returned to China, therefore.... you know what I mean :P , but miracle happens, I close my eyes, besides of
Hallelujah hallelujah
Hallelujah hallelujah
Hallelujah hallelujah....
Nothing more but peace & joy, that’s all.
A moment that I’ll never forget, a gift from God! Hallelujah!
Back to the angel voice, I just can’t stop to hear more & more, one voice after the others...I was “trapped”! There is mass ready to be carried out, so I sit down on the bench nearby, bow down my head, close my eyes, listen to the lovely voice, so tranquil & peaceful...so...so...”Dark”!!! I am short of my breath...
It may be a good time to write this book cos’ we are in the shadow of Covid-19 in the whole world, but while I am completing book 5 and ready to release, vaccines brings us a small light beam....a little hope, at least.
To recap some of the sceneries while the early explosion of the pandemic, some people thought it’s only a matter of life & death, so they just don’t care and reject any protection act but “Freedom of their own” not others who also has “Freedom to survive, being free from affection by others.”
Not until the reality force everybody on earth to face it’s cruelty, we’ve already lost millions & millions of life, thousands & thousands of families became fragments.
Sometimes, I was thinking, isn’t it a similar scenario to our religious belief?
In Paris, there are numerous église = cathedral/ church, some were built centuries before (like the one above was found around 7th Century), a truly historical monument. They are breathtaking especially when you’ve entered, to experience the atmosphere of its’ holiness, remember Sacré-Cœur in Montmartre? Or église St-Eustache near Forum des Halles? Although there were mass held every week or even daily, a place for the faithful hearts, in fact, Catholic or Christian who still attending regular mass or Sundry services are rare nowadays in this country, why?
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I was quite surprised when I knew it, meaning the flourishing of église doesn’t reflect the flourish of spiritual lives.
Would the Bohemia life style can bring us some hints? a life style that attracts me, too; or, if we really living in this way, when facing the question of life & death again one day, not only on earth but above, could we be “vaccinated”?
...I’m afraid the answer
is no!
A super cold and foggy morning, I am in the Luxembourg garden right now, it's on the Left bank in 6e, a bit larger than Jardin de Tuileries; more trees of maple & chestnut, beautiful fallen leaves...
Here is the "postcard" shot in my guide book that attracted me, although quite difference due to the weather, I am glad that I do come to have my Vienna chocolate inside...being their first client of the day.
My original plan do not include Luxembourg because I tend to spend more time in the Louvre, but unfortunately...& fortunately I have extra days due to the limitation of my museum pass, and that's my reward in return, I am so so lucky.
Walking in Luxembourg, the feeling is quite different from that in Tuileries; Tree vs Flowers, which is my favorite,?...both? I guess. But I think the location do affect a bit of my impression because Luxembourg is located in the Latin Quarter, a student area, whereas Tuileries is in the Louvre & Les Halles district, an epicentral; in addition, Shakespeare & Company bookshop is nearby, that's why, here, is more tranquil & poetic.This is the only photo that I can record to let you know where I was. I've just sneak into a huge store, behind a pair of white painted closing doors, there are two levels of platforms for the storage of orange trees; it's very interesting, because they are quite large actually, may be around 3 meter high, but look like they are "babies"; well protected to keep them warm with sufficient air vent above, and just having their breakfast...
I do want to walk closer to smell and touch them, but the store keeper who is watering somewhere in the dark corner discover me, so...I failed...but still excited, ha ha!
Here is a citrus in another corner of the garden to compensate my lost, what a lovely orange hue in the autumn leaves with slight refreshing aroma, too.Well, maple, chestnut trees, fountains, sculpture, mosaic-culture planter beds, orange tree, hot choclate, museum...,etc; you name it, or even more are the treasure of Luxembourg for the Parisian & tourist.
The locals have their unforgettable childhood memories in this garden, and as a tourist, I find mine's too, guess what?
Click to enlarge |
Years ago, I had received a souvenir from my client, a lovely box of chocolate - from Maxim's, Paris. I'm sure the chocolate was delicious but the box was my favorite, always. Whenever I've looked at the illustrations on the "tin", I'd wonder what exactly this place was looked like in the year of Belle Époque?
Everyone who watched this movie love the story line and equally the location of those mysterious scenes. I was drown in this 90mins illusion every time I am watching this movie.
Let me tell you there is another "unforgettable" moment that you shouldn't miss - the opening scene : a 3,5 mins. of postcard show of the Vintage Paris with the background music of "Si tu vois ma mére"(Sidney Bechet)...don't miss it, you'll know why!
...continue
"why the train door kept closing when boarding?...Oops!!!!"
Manual Operation! " I seeeeeeee..."
So, I missed the stop...but never mind, just another ride at the opposite platform will do, no hurry!
Although Montmartre is now in the boundary of Paris, it do has a different charisma once I've come out from the Metro station.
The super fresh air? the tranquil atmosphere without much traffic? the infinite "upward motion" to lead you somewhere? the people in a much leisure gesture?...may be everything that counts, I think.
Wow! it seems I am a bit "too leisure", visitors already crowded in front of Sacré-cœur, as well as inside. I have a special experience there but let me tell you later in other post.
The weather is fine but windy, so it's not easy to stay long in the exterior unless the sun comes out to warm up the air. Well, of course the scenery is stunning when you are "up up high", even superior if you climb up to the top of Sacré-cœur, but not this time.
In order to be "leisure", I carry nothing except my phone + an apple. This photo is so worst that the low resolution and freezing hands shaking resulting the pixelate housing at far end; but it seems time freeze, while I am wondering what were the citizen doing right there in those pixelated houses in the year of Belle Époque? and up here?
Divine Comedy...is now in my mind! |
There are a lot more places you can discover in Montmartre, usually they have their own stories behind. But those related to painters or writers are far more attractive to me. La Maison Rose is one of the unique café located on cobble stoned pavement that you shall never miss it. It's as charming as a rose, for sure.
The story behind? I would like to invite you to read this post Top 10 Historica Facts about La Maison Rose - by Molli a very detail & good post that can bring you back to it's past! Thank you Molli.
Okay!I remember I have to let you know whether Montmartre is a "danger zone" or not? Absolutely not in day time, how about at night?
I am afraid I can't tell you this time, because my pair of sore feet beg me to leave, but I promise myself in front of La Maison Rose, I shall return!
In fact, I guess "fascinating" may be a more appropriate word to say, let's see...
click to enlarge |
So, what is you choice?