Le Chat Noir - The black cat

Famous re-opening handbill of the Chat Noir
 by Théophile Alexandre Steinlen (1859-1923)

 

The upcoming Book Three of Petit Paris is  titled Chat Noir, French of Black(Noir)Cat(Chat).

A unique name to citizens of Montmartre in Paris. The first cabaret there founded by Rodolphe Salis in 1881. A place for pianists, shadow play performers, artist, writers, poets, musicians...all about arts!

During the era of French Belle Époque, the golden age from 1872-1914, here, Montmartre was a paradise to the high and middle classes.

Shadow play scene by
Henri Rivière (1864-1951)

Café, wine bar, music, cancan dancing...here and there, day & night. The bohemian aroma floats in the air. It became the 18th arrondissement of Paris since 1 January 1860.

Le Chat Noir, Moulin Rouge, Maxim, Bateau-Lavoir, Place du Tertre,Sacré-cœur, Musée de Montmartre, Espace Dali...all well known!

A portrait of Rodolphe Salis
by Pierre Poterlet (1804-1881)

A small village was transformed into a modern world. The long forgotten suffering city during in the Franco-Prussian War and the 1871 Paris Commune which brought communards buried alive on the butte of Montmartre - where the Basilica of Sacré-cœur was built later from 1876-1919.

What a sad history, it seems no where on earth can be vaccinated from War!

Same fate to the underclass, who barely shared any "fruit" from the flourish golden age; here, in Montmartre.

In the years between WWI & WWII, Francisque Poulbot who lived here, created illustrations, posters mostly concerning the living & needs of street kids; and at the same time, satirized the foolishness of War!

I shall say the feeling to Montmartre is "complicated". Wherever I see the prosperous side through its architecture/ history, it always link to the sorrow behind; but may be that's why it is so attractive, with a touch of regrettable and unforgettable...

P.S.: All photos are taken from the Musée de Montmartre.

 

 

Follow me

click to enlarge

Last post for Entrée Sortie is definitely the watercolor inside. Most of the museums I've been visited are located on the Right Bank, and they seems to be within distances from my hotel, but in fact, if you prefer to walk instead of taking metro, like me; you need a pair of super comfort shoes + full breakfast, I'll suggest. 

The most difficult decision is whether to have lunch even though, you need one indeed. But I always skip & replaced by fast food or apple because, the café will "drain" my time in the museum, and you will never never want to leave those relaxing café in Paris.

To fully utilize my Six(consecutive)days museum pass, a detailed plan is a must, but still, you'll have to alter your plan due to unexpected scenario; such as renovation or maintenance will temporary close a particular gallery, or a special exhibition may restrict your pass entry in ordinary situation...,etc.

Visiting museum is joyful and indulgence especially in solo, because you don't have any time limit or neediness to concern third parties' issue :P - but of course, the core is you enjoy being alone.

Let me tell you a secret, my original plan is to buy two Six day Pass, but fortunately I've decided not to over estimate of my power and I really need some time to digest/absorb the content.

To conclude my museum journey, I draw this map to share with you, when you follow my steps, I hope you can also share my happiness as well. See you :D

Musée National Picasso Paris

Day 7: Cold & rainy morning /17531 steps

Let's skip day 6 in the mean time,I will get back to you when Book Three is ready, but, this time, will have to wait for a while.

So, lets visit this museum which I shall say it is raw and subtle - Musée National Picasso Paris.

Situated in a historic monument since 1968 - Hôtel Salé, built between 1656 & 1660. Almost 365 years before? Wow! 

I am totally disconnected from reality and try to walk into Picasso's mind. Before this trip, I saw a T.V. series in Hong Kong about his whole life; so, more or less it helps to understand/feel a bit more when perceiving his works. 

Those two paintings in Entrée Sortie may not be the most famous one, but I personally like them a lot. They are so simple, a view from window, may be; what we often do in our daily life, but in Picasso's eyes, they became extraordinary. 

It is raining outside right now, a bit grey...but when I view from here, I see color. 

Besides Picasso's work, I love to view from the windows of this monument, it's frame & a bit distorted glazing, creating an illusory effect, and that's why I can be detached.

Exposed timber structure in the ceiling

But when these timber structure appear somewhere in the building, sometimes they form part of his art piece; the contradiction of antiquity & cubism forms an interesting combination yet harmonize. 

It's stop raining outside when I've finished to enjoy the last art piece; it's time to return to reality, although I wish there is no Sortie.

Petit Palais

Day 5: Cloudy afternoon / 17758 steps

Grand Palais

Petit Palais

Arriving here at around 1300, the sky is still a bit dull, hopefully it will turn brighter afterward.

There is a square connected two museums that I am planning to visit. One grand one petit, they are just located right opposite to each others, so convenience.

I have to shoot very very quickly here, you guess why?  
"I am attacking by marshmallow!"
Hey, I am serious. 

Originally I thought it is raining, when those feather like marshmallow sit on my camera, they are sticky, so I taste it...omg! so sweet!

Can you see those white kiosk there in the center of the square? Yeah! there they are made and fly in the air every where. Catch them if you can or want a seat? there is another corner for you...a small food plaza.

I am already filled up by the marshmallow, so I jump into the Grand Palais first, but unfortunately, can't access by my pass or I can buy a ticket. Usually in this situation, I will turn to another one and leave it for my next trip. 

Voila! Petit Palais is free entry. It's beautiful inside with wide range of collections, but this area is quite extraordinary.

When I am walking under this gigantic corridor, what I am thinking is "who put the carpet onto the ceiling?":P
This is also an exhibition gallery, see those modern art piece displayed on the floor? Well, 

super beautiful mosaic flooring + uninterrupted marble walls + carpet like hand painted fresco ceiling + lifeless modern art...what do you think? Is it weird but interesting? A totally different style of what I've been visited before, a bit of sadness is floating in the air... 

Leaving Petit Palais at around 1445, then I return to Jardin des Tuileries, this time, God give me a present...Sunny sky! What a wonderful experience there, I'll share with you in my books later. 

Up to now, do you remember how many museums I have been visited? Any more to come?

Musée de I'Orangerie

Day 5: Cold & Windy Morning with shower

  

A local told me, umbrella is a must in this season, never ever leave it behind. 

Having cloudy sky is quite usually in the morning this week, but it won't affect my mood cos' the scenery are still attractive, even a street corner will cheer me up :D

Walking through Jardin des Tuileries towards three museums that I've planned to visit today. The first one is Musée de I'Orangerie. Not a huge one, but cosy. The most important is still...the collections inside are worth to visit. 

This may be one of the most attractive "oval" shape gallery for Monet's Nymphéas Series. 

It's difficult for me to find a minute to have a clear shot in front of the whole painting. So, that's why you may also notice the one in my book is a bit "shaky".

But luckily,I am interested in the details of his brush stroke, so a very very close view has no problem at all, and I am afraid I've become part of their obstacle instead, sorry!:P

Besides this, I think these are also amazing. A color guide in 1879 by Ogden Nicolas Road, So Cool! See how it was applied to the framing below,delicate and lovely.  

In Musée de I'Orangerie, you will find a lot of the art pieces that are related to Impressionism. Other artists include Matisse, Renoir, Picasso, Sisley, Seurat...,etc. So lots of "dots" and interesting brush stroke dancing in front of you, again, cheer me up!

 

Actually the interior of this museum is quite simple, it works so well with the complicated dot dot dot,I think.
    

To end this visit within an hour's time, better having my simple breakfast to move on. à bientôt!

Continue...The Louvre

Day 4: Rainy night/ 18061 steps

Excluding the Reception floor,there are 4 levels in total of three wings: Denon, Sully & Richelieu. Every guide book will tell you that, Plan your route carefully & don't expect you can visit all rooms.

It's 101% true, there are around 464 exhibition rooms/galleries in The Louvre, I started from 0930 till 1930, guess how many rooms I've been staying?...I mean staying is viewing the art pieces in detail, not simply passing by, it's only 184/484. So, my originally planning of 184 x 2.5days = 460 will be quite close to reality.I am so envy to those locals I guess, who can have a seat in front of their favorite painting, to practice with their own drawing technique there, in a timeless environment, how lucky they are, I wish I could...

As a monument from the 12th century, and was transformed/extended into a museum in 1793, you can find numerous traces of the past inside, some are renovated in purpose to cope with the exhibited art pieces. There are always picture in picture, frame in frame... the spatial design are fascinating. 

Today, you can access their web site to study most of the important collections in the museum, comfortably at home, but if possible, it's still worth to visit once in a life time.

I've spend most of the time for all the Paintings, Greek/Roman Antiquities as well as Europe sculpture. But there are some treasure do draw my attention,like this!

It's cool, isn't it?!If my memory is correct, it is a traveler's make-up kit for ladies, so...so...cute yet luxurious,do you want one?

Well, may be it's enough for Musée du Louvre, although I still want to let you know some interesting people that I've met today, may be sometimes later if I still remember...:P

For the time being, I have to sortie in the rain, with my "fuel",Au revoir!

Musée du Louvre

 Day 4: Cloudy Morning

Every time walking along Seine will look at this arch

Morning in Paris is gorgeous even though the air is a bit chilly. I was in a "coma" last night, walking can be enjoyable and exhausted but resulting a very good & deep sleep. So I wake up early this morning at 0600, because today is a big day for me.

My original plan is spending two & a half days in The Louvre, but I have to change my plan to one whole day instead; because I forget the pass will only allow one time skip the line access, and I choose Wednesday in order to take advantage of the long opening hours up to 2100.

I have a full breakfast to fill up my stomach before hand, to enter, I can simply across one road towards Cour Carrée, because my hotel is right opposite to it - which, is one of the major reason for me to stay there. But I choose to enter from the entrance near Pont du Carrousel for short cut to the main entrance at the Pyramid. 

There has already a long long queue waiting outside, now let me "skip" again...(remember to make a reservation online prior visit even though you have the Museum Pass)

When I get the site map at the reception, I search the location of "The Raft of the Medusa", it should be at Room 77, 1st floor of Denon Wing. I do know that my data may not update, so I counter check and find...nothing! there is nothing mention here or there, Oh! I am out of luck, I think.

So I follow my planned route, visiting each room one by one, hopefully I will find it. The Louvre is always under renovation or maintenance, so the re-allocation of art pieces are quite often, when I see the directory near a staircase, I am pretty sure I need to plan for another visit years later.

This wall shall reflect some of my disappointment, but on the other hand, don't you think they are elegant and self exhibiting here? Framing of a painting is always part of the art piece, they can finally have a chance to become the focus themselves, Congratulations, you guys look stunning :D

Hermes is one of my favorite character in the Greek myth. The one in my book is made of bronze, this is another one in marble. His Roman name is Mercury,charming & cunning; he is one of Zeus's son and messenger,too. That's why he has a pair of winged golden sandals as a gift from his father,for him to travel as fast as wind.  

If you want to know more, I'd like to introduce a book to you: Mythology 101 by Kathleen Sears(published by Adams media). 

Then,what's next?

Orsay...on my way

Day 3:Cloudy Afternoon/ 20941 steps

Where am I? - I can't tell, I am on my way to Musée d'Orsay, it should not far from Musée Rodin, how come...I get lost...again?

Direction is always a dominant gene that I am lacking of when I was born, I'm sure. So I did calculate the time required for this specific task in Paris, even though I have my GPS, Omg!

It's already 1400, it seems my apple earlier ate in Rodin's garden can't last long, I better concentrate & get back to the right track...before the wind blow me off. 

Hmm,it may be a good sign and it will be great if there is a jet for me right now...

Finally arrive Musée d'Orsay at around 1530.I don't have much time because it will be closed at 1800. Once again, my museum pass did it's great job for a quick access. Musée d'Orsay was use to be a railway station, and now a huge museum, so the interior is absolutely difference from Rodin's(Hotel), before jump into the flourish collection of art pieces, these are also attractive...

...combination of different form and materials, antique classic yet industrial...a transformation to her as well.

The crowd usually locate in front of the giant clock face, but this tranquil corner is not bad either,right? at least I can take a shot without interruption.

Basically visitors are not allow to take photographs inside, avoid crowd to create bottle neck affecting the circulation. But, as you can imagine, not many to follow because the collections here are marvelous.  

Starting from 5th floor downward, ranging from Impressionism to Neo Impressionism; Art Nouveau decor including furniture & jewellery of different countries; sculptures plus a special gallery of Degas...I wish I could show you some of them. 

1730, it's enough today, I need some time to absorb, it's time to leave. By walking back to hotel, I may have a chance to look for "him", my dreamed Kolisky at Magasin Sennelier, please wait, I am on my way...

Continue...Rodin

...Day 3 continue in the cloudy morning

I am not any sort of expert or professional in the era of sculpture, when I started visiting exhibitions in Hong Kong since Henry Moore, it could rarely evoked my interest to stay long,...until today.  

First of all, I have to say sorry that I don't remember the title of these sculpture, but they are worth to look into details. I have another habit when perceiving sculpture, I tend to view at the same height level first from 360 towards  720 degree at higher or lower levels; and usually they will reflect a lot more interesting/ beautiful silhouette or mass, like this; what do you think? The reflection of bronze is also amazing,too.

There are so many pieces of sculpture in the rooms, people are fond of "The Kiss"; me too but a lot more. Here is quite special as I think, so I look closely enough for a while and find something interesting, right in between the two figures (click to zoom larger)see if you discover "it", too?

...yes! half way down there, is there a piece of book/newspaper shred inside as part of the "filling"...I wonder :D 

Besides this, "The Kiss" give me an impression of lover in a mature age but this, a more long lasting intimacy between two of them, nice and peaceful.

There will never be an end if writing about Rodin's work, the best is for you to experience yourself. After a few more hours stay inside, one place I have to go before leaving, to visit "The Gate of Hell". 

Right in front of it, I immediately connect it to Dan Brown's Inferno and Dante's Divine Comedy. Some visitors think the features inside are quite erotic, when I look into details, touching the cold hard surface, what I see...is "Us" & the infinite desire...which eventually opening this gate...

Musée Rodin

Day 3: Cloudy Morning

Musée Rodin

I love paintings more than sculpture, so originally, Musée Rodin was not in my itinerary,but thanks to my friend Lorraine, she told me, almost "force" me :P said " Trust me, you MUST visit Rodin, it's worth to go!!!"...and that's why I am here.

This is a typical post card shot of this museum, although the weather is not perfectly clear, it still reflects a sort of classic mansion feel found in some of the TV series, and actually it is a restored Hotel Biron with a beautiful rose garden.

I walk from hotel at 0830 towards the left bank arriving here at 1000, why take so long? because I am walking slowly, almost 80% slower compare with the momentum in Hong Kong, "intentionally" and naturally when I was landed in Paris. Entering the museum, the very first thing I've seen is...her!

Young Girl with roses on her hat - 1865-1870 by Auguste Rodin

I have to confess, she changed my entire world of sculpture, I stay with her for almost half an hour. I don't know why, simply looking into her face and eyes, it seems she is talking to me, asking me to join her in her past...I am "trapped" by her, and I think this is why Rodin is so extraordinary! I want to leave her and move forward to the other art pieces for almost three times, I failed!

She is the most touching sculpture art piece in my journey - a note that I'd like to write down before I forget.

I have a habit when visiting exhibition, read the title only after perceiving the art piece in my own way, and if only if it's necessary to find out more; otherwise, I love to leave the memory right there in the mean time.

You may ask why I didn't use this picture in my book if I am so fond of her?...I think, may be I just don't want to "interrupt"...


 

Forum des Halles ?

Day 2: Sunny / Warm afternoon 
    + Stormy rainy night / 20144 steps

Forum des Halles

      

...What's next? I didn't plan for another museum because it's only at the beginning of my journey, no rush right? and truly speaking, I need to be familiar with the streets in different arrondissements. 

So, what is nearby to Center Pompidou? It's Forum des Halles & the famous Église St-Eustache (Church St-Eustache). They are connected by a huge public square with lots of greenery, people just having their sun bath on the grassland or shopping in the huge arcade. 

I am here almost 1520, shopping mall is not my cup of "coffee", after lying on the grassland for half an hour, I've decided to walk slowly back to hotel, simply passing by Église St-Eustache. "Not enter?" you may say, well,yes, why not sometime next day, again, no rush!

To enjoy walking under sun bath with breeze, warm and airy, so relaxing and I am sure you can imagine it,too. Is my day end back to the hotel? not really.

After a quick refreshment, my favorite twilight time arrive, so there is no excuse for me to stay inside as I don't have a stunning street viewable window...I quickly grab my blanket to receive this magic moment at Pont Neuf.

What I can say is...speechless, I am "melted" into the twilight blue...watching Eiffel at the far end...

Beginning of the wind

then, it happens just within seconds, thick clouds gather up in the sky hiding all my lovely blue follow by a super storm like wind,rain start splashing onto us; what we people can do are running to find a shelter somewhere, catching the table decor that may be gone with the wind at those riverside càfe; "screaming" with laughter...

"What an amazing day, I am so lucky to experience such a dramatic weather changes within a day, interesting...what will tomorrow be like? I can't wait"...I wrap my blanket tight over my head and shoulder while running back to Relais du Louvre...

Centre Pompidou Paris

Day 2 : Sunny / Cold morning

0600 in the morning, after  "fully charged" last night, I am eager to start my adventure, but...Pompidou opened at 1100, so I have plenty of time to walk from hotel started by a simple breakfast of croissant + double espresso at Le Corona.

Walking around the street(Rue in French)nearby, it's always amazing to chase the shadows of sunlight, one of my favorite exercise; it leads me to a lot more rue out of my itinerary, and I don't mind getting lost if I have time...they are so beautiful...Bonjour stranger :D

As most of you may know that Pompidou has an unique architecture formed by an inside out design concept with pipes of plumbing, air & electrical cable,...etc mainly exhibit Modern & Contemporary Art. I can access quickly within minutes with my Pass, when I enter the hall, the neon sign at far end drawn my attention because it looks a bit vintage :D - my other favorite.   

Up to the 5th floor, you will see a

spectacular outdoor view and while riding up the escalator, this is another interesting view that I've found: see? a lovely fountain with colorful modern art sculpture, a square for people gather around in the space of "modern & classic".

Actually, 5th floor is my target, showcases of artist between 1905 to 1970 mixed up with others like Picasso, Matisse, Kandinsky, Pollock...,etc. It's worth to spend a few hours to see them one by one. 

I love to walk from the highest level that I can access (due to the
Pass restrictions, like Pompidou, I can't access 6th floor this time, but...I'll be back, ha ha!)because
when reaching the G/F or basement floor, my "fuel tank" should be emptied and ready to "Sortie". 

The art pieces inside are really gorgeous but I am sorry that I can't post the photos here due to copyright issue. So, here I've got one interior decor on the 4th floor, interesting right? This will lead you to a workshop for teenagers from age 13-16, quite fresh.

Well, when I've finished further down until reaching the G/F,it's around 1500. My spirit is high & full of happiness, but my body is exhausted. So...

...my fuel here! return to a shop at the rue I've passing by this morning. To me, the food is not important provided there is an espresso, but some other things always interested me and invite me to stay, guess what...?

...here it is! What a lovely"stop"of my first half day...what next?



 

Petit Paris - Entrée Sortie

click to enlarge

Hi Hi, 

Whenever I am devoted to something, I shall never know time flies, it's almost three months since the publication of my first book. 

Book Two will soon be released on 3 May 2020, and pre-order is accepted right now in Google Books.

After the first day of exploration around Pont Neuf, I was ready to start the journey of museums in Paris. First of all, what I needed to know was these two French words:-

Entrée = Entrance
Sortie = Exit 

If you do remember, I had a target in this trip - to find a painting in The Louvre; but also to visit 6-8 museums if I could. 

Museum in Paris are huge in space, I might need to spend at least half day inside even not looking the art pieces one by one in details as expected, but you never know; even though I did reserve two & a half days for The Louvre, it comes out I spent one whole day there only, Why? I'll let you know later, but first, lets start our journey from Centre Pompidou in next post. See you!

寫下...怕會忘記

從2020年1月份至今我陸續邀請了30位親朋作首讀預覽. 收到20組書評, 當中不乏對本書的寫作對象, 體裁, 篇幅長度, 排版設計, 相片調色, 繪畫色彩, 文字内容等多項提出不同的意見; 範圍涵括面頗全面, 有理性分析, 也有感性思考的回覆. 

在我決定開始創作這個系列之時, 最令我感到難以決擇的是: 要商品化嗎?
也許無容置疑是理應商品化, 用設計技巧來處理並出版; 大部份朋友的意見也證明應該朝這方向而行, 否則又何需網上發售呢? 沒錯...

...但在繼續製作Entrée Sortie時, 我竟沒有把上述提及的各項上, 作太明顯的修正! 抱歉令大家失望.  並非因為你們的意見不好或不被看重, 反之我認為是很細心及有見地; 只是, 翻複思量了好幾週, 至少到目前這刻, 我仍被”初心”叫我保留”她的個人化"罷了, 也許還是免不了要付上一些代價.  

容許我在此向大家陳明我所謂的”初心”, 以下是Petit Paris系列的原創結構: 

對象:              任何需要空間又或想思考前路的人

體裁:              繪本型式的短詩集
篇幅長度:      A5, 一百頁以内的小書

排版設計:      簡潔, 最少修飾
相片調色:      最少修正, 色彩角度光線情景與拍攝時保留最大相符 

                       (即使不幸手震 out of focus :P)

繪畫色彩:      monotone/ gray scale + 全色水彩中頁
文字内容:      接近手寫字體, 簡潔
其他:              相片,插圖與短詩存在於不同空間

就是這樣...只想讀者能和我同處當時那一刻的巴黎…即使不一定令人嚮往, 卻可以稍作喘息.  倘若有一天以上一切都要改變, 但願你仍然喜歡和我飛翔...! 

忘記鳥